Jeb Dunnuck – 97 points
The flagship 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley is all Cabernet Sauvignon brought up in new barrels (mostly Taransaud and Darnajou). Beautiful crème de cassis, graphite, spice box, and lead pencil notes all flow to a full-bodied, soft, elegant wine that has beautiful tannins, no hard edges, and a seamless texture. It shows the more upfront, charming style of the vintage and is already hard to resist. Nevertheless, it should easily evolve for 20+ years.
Tried and true, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon displays classic typicity for the bottling. Displaying a dark ruby color at the core with a solid ruby edge, the wine continues to be a clear champion of Washington Cabernet. Succulent blackberry, cassis, lavender-infused dark cherry, currant and layers of elegant baking spices on the nose flutter on top of streams of red and purple flowers with hints of dusty cocoa powder. Full-bodied, rich, elegant and tied up with a bow, the palate is generous, overflowing with dark red and black fruit essence that begins to break into the blue fruit territory. The structure is generous yet balanced, like watching a jumbo jet land with ease. While still young, the tannic structure is firm and will ease over the next three to six years before stretching its legs and hitting its stride. Ending with the long, winding and ever-evolving finish, the wine delivers pleasure at every turn. The wine spent 20 months in 100% new French oak and then rested for a year in bottle.
Wine Enthusiast – 96 points
This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, with fruit coming from Horse Heaven Hills sites Champoux, Lake Wallula, Palengat, and Wallula. It’s aromatically brooding out of the gate, with notes of cherry meats, barrel spice and incense, not yet ready to reveal its charms. Dense, focused, layered, almost creamy-feeling fruit flavors follow. It is coiled up tightly right now but has all of the stuffing to go the distance and then some. Best from 2030–2037.
Cellar Selection #98 Wine Enthusiast Top 100 Cellar Selection Wines of 2020